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Marcia Cohen, Education Director
Chicago, IL

"What I Did on my Summer Vacation……………"

Many of us remember being asked to write such an essay when we started school each September. Somehow all the fun times we had in July and August never seemed quite as memorable when it was reduced to a composition for English class. For now, I will try to put my classroom angst aside, as I have just returned from a remarkable two week Melton Israel Seminar, and I am anxious to share some of my thoughts and experiences with the Congregation.

For the past two years I have spent every Thursday morning studying the intricacies of the Jewish calendar and holidays, history, ideology, and ethics as part of the Florence Melton Adult Mini-School for Teachers, a project of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, which is sponsored locally by the Board of Jewish Education (BJE). The Israel Seminar is designed for graduates of the Melton program, and thus is not a typical bus touring trip of the country. This was made clear to us at our opening night dinner at Hebrew University when our group educator told us "You are not tourists. You are going to learn about the land and its people. It's not going to be glossed over and put in a pretty package." Thus began our 12 days of study, travel, interviews, lectures, debates (and of course some time to bolster the Israeli economy with shopping purchases of Judaica and jewelry!)

Here is a brief outline of what I found to be the most memorable parts of the Seminar:

o Visiting Independence Hall in Tel Aviv and hearing about the events leading up to David Ben Gurion's proclamation of Israel as an independent country on May 14, 1948. (While I have shown video clips of this speech in Family School, it was so much more powerful to be in the actual spot where it occurred and to hear a tape of those very words, and then standing together as we all sang "Hatikva.")

o Visiting Masada and analyzing the choices the Jewish zealots made in the year 73 when fighting against the Romans. At the time of our visit there was a group of soldiers on Masada who had just completed their 8 months of basic training and were preparing for their formal induction ceremony on top of Masada. Their commanding officer spoke with us and shared his thoughts that the decision made by the Jews on Masada in 73C.E. is not altogether different than what he might face as a soldier if he is caught in a situation totally surrounded by the enemy. Will he command his troops to "fight to the death," to surrender, or consider other options as the ancient Jews did on Masada? The afternoon on Masada was even more emotional for me, as I recognized my cousin Tzachi as one of the new soldiers. Although Tzachi was born in Israel, he grew up in Chicago, and our families have spent every Rosh Hashanah and Passover seder together for the past 12 years. Tzachi made the decision last summer (at age 22) to return to Israel for his adult life. The coincidence that I happened to be on Masada at the same time that he was there for army induction really made me appreciate the unity of the Jewish people and how we are all linked to the country and land.

o Listening to a debate between two Israelis regarding the government's decision on disengagement from Gaza and the West Bank. We had dinner with 2 Israelis - one is a settler living outside the green line who opposes the government's plan to pull out of Gaza, and the other lives within the established borders of Israel who feels that we must let the Palestinians establish their own state in order to promote peace in Israel, and to keep Israel a Jewish country. It was fascinating to hear their very different opinions on the disengagement. It is an issue that has really split the country and has no easy solution.

o Interviewing Israelis in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem - On a Thursday afternoon we were sent out on the streets of Tel Aviv to interview Israelis as to whether they thought Tel Aviv was a Jewish city. Unlike what we would expect in America, Israelis were very willing to talk to strangers who approached them on the street. The answers we received to our interview questions were also surprising. Most replied that "Yes," Tel Aviv was a Jewish city since it was in Israel, and Israel is a Jewish state. They didn't pinpoint an observance of Shabbat, holidays, kashrut, or Jewish traditions as making the city Jewish, just that Jewish people lived there.

On Friday morning (erev Shabbat), just when we thought our experience approaching strangers was completed, our Melton Seminar teachers had yet another outing planned for us: Working in groups of 2 or 3 people, we were sent out to neighborhoods all over Jerusalem and asked to knock on doors and try to get invited inside to interview the families. Fortunately, my group was successful at the first apartment building we tried. A 53-year old woman who emigrated from Sweden to Israel as a teenager in 1966 invited us into her home. She said that as a daughter of Holocaust survivors she felt that she needed to come to Israel and make her home there. We spent close to 1½ hours speaking with her and her college-age son about Israeli politics, the disengagement, and their observance of Jewish traditions. This was certainly a lesson that could never be taught in a classroom or with textbooks!

o Shabbat in Jerusalem is unlike any other place in the world. It's as if the whole city looks forward to Shabbat, and when it arrives everything stops and becomes holy. From the most orthodox families all the way to tourists everyone cleans up for Shabbat and wears their best clothes. Our group met for Kabbalat Shabbat services at the Kotel (Western Wall), and then we walked back to our hotel. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner at our hotel intertwined with stories and singing. On Saturday morning I attended services at Hebrew Union College (where all Reform Rabbis spend the first year of their studies.) Since the rabbinical students were all away on summer break, the congregation was totally filled with tourists. It was wonderful to see so many Reform Rabbis from the U.S., England and Australia who had all brought groups from their congregations, as well as groups of teenagers and young adults who were participating on Birthright or NFTY Israel trips. While on Friday night it was interesting to be surrounded by orthodox and ultra-orthodox families observing Shabbat within the walls of the old city, I was definitely much more within my own comfort level praying amongst Reform Jews on Shabbat Morning with our familiar Gates of Prayer siddur.

Other highlights for me included visiting Qumran (the site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found, Yad Vashem (the Israel Museum campus commemorating the Holocaust), and Katzrin in the Golan where we learned about the strategic importance of the Golan to Israel. We mixed a little play with our studies as well and spent an afternoon rafting (and splashing) on the Jordan River. This was my 3rd trip to Israel, and every time I'm there I feel more and more drawn to the country. Although my home is in the U.S., I know that I also have a home in Israel.

To make my trip even more special, I was fortunate to have several of our Or Shalom teachers participate in the Israel Seminar with me: Andi Freier (Family School grade 4 and 6th grade); Paula Spitz (new Family School grade 5 teacher); and Jenni Pestine (new Bar/Bat Mitzvah tutor). I met these teachers through my Melton classes the past 2 years, and have formed new friendships, as well as the opportunity to add their innovative teaching talents to our program.

I am thrilled to report that tourism is very strong in Israel this summer as evidenced by the totally full airplanes and hotels. I was absolutely comfortable walking in Jerusalem on my own during the day, or in small groups after dark. While it's a bit of a shock at first to see not only uniformed soldiers walking around with their rifles slung over their shoulder, but off-duty soldiers dressed in casual clothing with their rifles as well, within a day or two it becomes just part of the "landscape" of the country, and you stop thinking of it as being unusual. In the sage words of Nike advertising, I urge any of you (parents or students) who are considering a trip to Israel to "just do it." You will be very glad that you did!



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